Yorkie training that actually works in a real South African home
Yorkies are clever little dogs. That is brilliant when the home is calm and the training is consistent. It is maddening when the household is chaotic and everyone does their own thing. I have bred, raised, and lived with these dogs for years, and I can tell you straight: most Yorkie "training problems" are actually human consistency problems.
This page covers the training basics that matter most for South African Yorkie owners: toilet training that actually sticks, what to do about barking (because yes, they bark), how to use a crate without guilt, lead work for tiny dogs, and what to expect when you bring home a rescue Yorkie who has never had any training at all.
A calm, predictable routine beats ten minutes of frustrated shouting. Yorkies learn through repetition, not drama.
The method that works for Yorkies of any age
Toilet training a Yorkie is not complicated, but it requires discipline from you. The dog will figure out the right spot quickly if you manage timing, supervision, and space properly. Here is the honest version:
📋 The schedule that works
Take your Yorkie to the same toilet spot at these times:
- First thing in the morning — not after coffee, first
- Immediately after every meal
- As soon as they wake from a nap
- Right after play or excitement
- Before crating or confinement
- Last thing at night
A Yorkie puppy cannot hold it for hours. If you are at work all day, arrange a midday visit or a dog walker. Expecting a tiny puppy to last eight hours is not training, it is setting everyone up for failure.
🚫 What not to do
Do not rub their nose in it. Do not shout. Do not expect a three-month-old puppy to have adult bladder control. Do not give free run of the house and then get angry about accidents.
When you find an accident, clean it with an enzymatic cleaner (available at most SA pet shops and vets). Regular soap will not remove the smell, and the dog will keep returning to the same spot because it still smells like a toilet to them.
If accidents keep happening, it is not spite. It is the schedule, supervision, or access that needs fixing. Adjust the routine, do not blame the dog.
For rescue Yorkies: Do not assume a rescue knows how to be housetrained just because they are an adult. Many rescue Yorkies arrive from situations where they lived in a crate, a yard, or a hoarding environment. They may never have had a proper toilet routine. Start from scratch like you would with a puppy, and be patient. It clicks faster once they feel safe and settled. See the rescue settling-in guide for more.
Why a crate is a training tool, not a cage
I get it — the word "crate" makes some people uncomfortable. But in over a decade of keeping Yorkies, a properly used crate has been one of the best tools I have had for training, safety, and giving a dog its own space. A crate is not a punishment. It is a bedroom.
How to crate train properly
- Make the crate comfortable — bedding, a safe chew toy, and a cover over three sides so it feels like a den.
- Never force the dog in. Toss treats inside and let them explore at their own pace.
- Feed meals inside the crate with the door open so they associate it with good things.
- Close the door for short periods while you are home. Start with five minutes, build up gradually.
- Use it for toilet training control — if you cannot supervise, the dog goes in the crate. Dogs naturally avoid soiling their sleeping space, so this helps build bladder control.
- Never use the crate as punishment. If the crate becomes the place the dog goes when someone is angry, the training collapses.
When to use a crate
- Overnight sleeping
- Short periods when you cannot supervise (shower, quick errand)
- Car travel — a crate is much safer than letting a tiny dog roam the cabin
- Recovery after surgery or illness
- As a quiet retreat when the house is busy
Important: A crate is not a long-term parking spot. If your Yorkie is in a crate for more than a few hours at a time, day after day, the training is wrong. Adjust your schedule or get help.
Yorkies bark. The question is why, and how much.
Let me be honest: Yorkies are terriers. Terriers were bred to alert and to work independently. A Yorkie that never barks is unusual. But a Yorkie that barks constantly is telling you something is wrong — stress, boredom, over-arousal, or a home environment that keeps them on edge.
In South Africa, we have a specific challenge: security barking. Burglar bars, electric fences, gate motors, neighbourhood dogs, delivery vehicles, domestic workers arriving — your Yorkie hears all of it and considers it their job to alert you. That is the terrier instinct. But you can manage it.
- Block visual triggers — close curtains or apply privacy film to lower windows where the dog watches the street.
- Teach a "quiet" cue calmly and consistently. Say "quiet" once, wait for a pause (even one second), then reward. Build the pause length gradually. Never shout — you are just adding noise to noise.
- Reduce overall arousal. An overtired Yorkie barks more. Enforce nap times and quiet periods during the day.
- Address the root cause. If the dog is barking at every outside noise, the nervous system may need more calm and less stimulation, not more scolding.
📖 Deeper dive: See the full Yorkie barking guide for more on the types of barking, management techniques, and when barking signals something more serious.
If barking suddenly escalates or comes with trembling, hiding, or destructive behaviour, see a vet first. Pain and illness can cause behaviour changes that look like training problems.
Walking a tiny dog on lead — it is different
A Yorkie on a lead faces the same world as a Great Dane, but from ground level. Traffic, loose dogs, sudden movements, and uneven pavement are all bigger threats to a small dog. Lead training for a Yorkie is as much about safety as it is about manners.
- Use a harness, not a collar. Yorkies have delicate tracheas. A collar + lead = risk of tracheal collapse if the dog lunges or pulls. A well-fitted harness spreads the pressure safely.
- Start indoors or in the garden. Let the dog wear the harness indoors for short periods, then attach the lead and let them drag it around before you pick it up.
- Keep sessions short. Five minutes of focused lead work is plenty for a puppy or newly adopted adult.
- Reward checking in. When your Yorkie looks at you during a walk, reward that. It builds the habit of paying attention to you rather than pulling towards every interesting smell.
- Watch for heat. In the South African summer, pavement can burn tiny paws. Walk early morning or late evening, and carry water. If the ground is too hot for your hand, it is too hot for paws.
A Yorkie that walks calmly on a loose lead is a joy. A Yorkie that drags you down the street is dangerous for both of you. Take the time to train this properly.
Please be careful with visitors and puppies
Do not let visitors pick up your Yorkie puppy. This is the single biggest cause of injury in Yorkie puppies. They are surprisingly strong and can unexpectedly jump and kick out of someone's hands.
I once sold a puppy and the owner let a friend pick it up. The puppy jumped, fell, and broke its leg and shoulder — R8 000 in vet bills. I have had phone calls from crying owners looking for another puppy because their previous one fell on its head and died. I am not exaggerating. I turned those callers down.
Yorkie puppies have soft, fragile bones. Do not let them jump off furniture, do not let children carry them unsupervised, and do not let guests treat them like a toy to be passed around. If you want to show the puppy off, sit on the floor and let the puppy come to you.
Training a rescue Yorkie — same principles, more patience
A rescue Yorkie arriving in your home may never have had any formal training. They might not know their name, might not have worn a collar or harness, might be terrified of the lead, and might not understand that we do our business outside.
That is fine. Start from scratch. The same toilet schedule, the same crate training, the same gentle handling. But add these:
- Decompress first, train second. The first week is about safety, routine, and trust. Do not throw obedience drills at a scared dog.
- Use high-value food rewards. A food-motivated dog learns faster. Find what they love — cheese, viennas, liver treats — and use it strategically.
- Be patient with triggers. A rescue dog may react to brooms, men, other dogs, loud voices, or being approached from above. Work around these triggers. Do not punish the reaction.
- Watch for pain. Many rescue Yorkies arrive with rotten teeth, ear infections, skin issues, or joint pain. If the dog is "difficult to train", check if they are physically uncomfortable first. See the Yorkie health guide.
Understanding their background also helps. The Yorkie temperament guide explains why tiny terriers behave the way they do, which makes training a rescue much less frustrating.
The real secret: train the humans first
Here is a truth I have learned after years with these dogs: most Yorkie "behaviour problems" are actually human inconsistency problems. If one person in the house lets the dog on the couch and another shouts at the dog for being on the couch, the dog does not learn "no couch". The dog learns that humans are unpredictable and confusing.
Sit down with everyone in the household. Agree on the rules before you start training. Same toilet spot. Same cue words ("off", not "down" for one person and "get off" for another). Same feeding times. Same bed routine. Same response to barking.
A Yorkie in a consistent home learns faster, barks less, and settles better. It really is that simple — and that hard, because it requires humans to be disciplined. But it is worth it. A well-trained Yorkie is one of the best companions you will ever have.
If the household cannot get consistent, or if the behaviour is escalating into aggression or panic, get help. Speak to your vet, find a force-free trainer who knows small dogs, and contact us if you need guidance on rescue support options.
Quick answers owners often need
Are Yorkies hard to train?
Not hard, but different. They are sensitive and independent. They do brilliantly with calm, short, repetitive sessions. The trouble starts when training is inconsistent or when the human gets frustrated and starts shouting. Keep it short, keep it calm, keep it consistent.
How do I toilet train a Yorkie puppy?
Follow the schedule above. Morning, after meals, after naps, after play, before bed. Supervise constantly. Confine the space when you cannot. Accidents mean the schedule needs fixing, not punishment. Puppies get better as they mature, but they cannot hold it for hours.
Why does my Yorkie bark at everything?
Because they are terriers. They were bred to alert. In SA homes, the security barking challenge is real — they hear every gate motor, every dog in the neighbourhood, every delivery. Manage the environment, teach a "quiet" cue, and reduce the dog's overall stress load. For a full breakdown of barking types and fixes, read the Yorkie barking guide.
Can I train an older or rescue Yorkie?
Yes. Older dogs learn just as well as puppies. A rescue Yorkie may need more time to decompress and build trust, but once they feel safe, the training works the same way. Start with the basics and be patient.
Should I use a crate?
Yes, if you use it properly. A crate is a training tool and a safe space, not a punishment. It helps with toilet training, prevents destructive behaviour, and gives the dog a den to retreat to. Never use it as a place to banish the dog when you are angry.
When should I call a professional trainer?
Call for help if behaviour suddenly changes, if there is aggression or biting, if the dog panics when left alone, or if the home is at risk. Start with a vet check to rule out pain or illness. Then look for a force-free trainer who works with small dogs. Punishment-based methods do not work on Yorkies.
Useful next steps
Training is just one piece of the puzzle. These pages cover the rest of what you need to raise a happy, healthy, well-adjusted Yorkie.